Wiiner Photo Walpaper

They had all wifi blacks, and all but the 16 wifi whites. They had enough for all tickets given out, but that may be about it.

Ended up getting a 64gb White. Had a great time :)

So no 3G?

Hence my giving him/her other options, like Visual Hub, Handbrake and Toast...

I have Toast Titanium 11, and while it DOES get the job done, it makes the video look pretty muddy and in general terrible.

We are quibbling details here.... but here are my thoughts about the HDD plan above.

Put the scratch disk on a 7200rpm drive, if you getting one. Make sure it's the first partition (this puts it, according to the research I did, on the outside of the platter. Seek times are faster here.)

You don't need to back up the scratch disk. It is populated when PS opens and you open files, then the contents are deleted when PS closes.

Make sure you have off-site backups. Since you are not a professional, you can probably get away with swapping the off-site back up weekly or even monthly. However, also have on-site back-ups. They do two different things.

The on-site back up should be updated at least daily. Get Carbon Copy Cloner or SuperDuper! (or similar) and let it run nightly. This creates a bootable backup. Plus, it's just automatic. You don't need to do anything once it's set up. Time machine also works well.

What SD! and CCC do is create a clone of your HDDs. If a drive fails, you buy a new drive and do a "restore". If the computer fails, CCC and SD! can actually be used to "boot" a loaner computer.

Time Machine is useful in that it keeps things up to date in 10 minute chunks (iirc) plus keeps versions of things so you can "undelete" files later on. I don't use TM myself.

You are most likely to need to go back to an on-site daily backup. HDDs fail. Computers break. All the time. Daily backups should be painless and automatic. Also, daily backups are probably only needed to replace the contents of a single HDD that crashed.

But.... occasionally there is the risk of a total system failure. Glass of water into system. Burst pipe in the room above you. (Water can 'run' really far... so the burst pipe can be in the bathroom above and over 3 rooms). Fire. Theft. Earthquake. Tree falling in a storm. This is when you want the offsite backup. You may lose everything you did since the last swap, but you haven't lost everything. I put mine in a safety deposit box. I've read about pro photographers who ship a HDD to friends off-continent.

Last thought. No one here has the foggiest idea when Apple is going to release the next Mac Pro. Or even if there is going to be a next version. Remember that this is a "Rumours" site, not a "News" site. So read up on the buyer's guide. Read some threads about when the next Mac Pro will be released. Some of us have an educated guess - but it's just that - a guess. And the "educated" I just add to make myself feel better. :)

Thank you for clarifying the scratch disc scenario, as I was in the dark. I will buy 7200 rpm drives at first. If I store photos etc, then I will consider 5400 rpm drives, as they are cheaper than 7200 rpm drives.

I will research the off-site and on-site backup plans, as this is a good strategy, especially when my collection increases two fold etc..

I plan to use Time Machine, Super Duper, or CCC. I spent a few miuntes researching CCC, but I have not researched Super Duper. I have read several threads regarding TM, which the information flows like wine in this forum! I like to have options and the off-site and on-site backup plans are worthy options to consider. Thanks again Sir!

Also, I have decided to wait for the Mac Pro refresh. I hope "rumors" are circulated soon speculating when the new Mac Pros will arrive on scene. Furthermore, I need time to research aspects of my backup plan, decide which software to buy, and lastly decide which machine is right for me, not in this particular order. Ultimately, I have to decide whether I want an 8 core or a 6 core. Thunderbolt is a game changer, hence I had better wait. The downside is: I still require a new computer. I am looking to buy either the 2010 or the 2011 MacBook Pro to replace my current laptop 'beater.' The beater has served me well, even though it is a "window" of the evil empire. :)

Again, I want to thank all of the 'Pro Photographers' on this forum who shared knowledge, backup plans, and general computer tid bits. You folks are first class! Your kind words, logical explanations are very helpful and are greatly appreciated, as I will use this thread as a future reference! :cool:

At the very least, resolution independence is no worse than changing the display resolution. If you change the display resolution, the monitor is simply doing scaling automatically to match it to the native resolution. However, it's scaling the entire screen as a single bitmap. This is why the screen looks blurry if you run at anything but the native resolution. (Note: This is with LCDs.)

With resolution indepence, at worst you do the same type of scaling in the OS. However in this case, the scaling algorithm affects only one app, the algorithm can be updated, and it can be better than the one used by the monitor.



And now they won't have to.

I guess we'll agree to disagree, and wait to find out. We already know that Apple knows that scaling things up will result in a loss of quality, or else they wouldn't be rebuilding all their graphics.

Since your iPhone 4 is on iOS 4.2.1 , you might be aware that there is currently no unlocking software available for the accompanying basebands.
Only the Gevey sim can do it right now, just plain inconvenient -- steps are required to get the kit working on your iPhone.What's more, apparently you'll need to do all of this again if you switch off the phone(if you keep the phone always on, then it's ok).
Got mine from a China based site, a knock-off at a cheap price, but it did work.
If you want to check : here (http://www.slickgate.com/gevey-turbo-sim-unlock-for-iphone-4-ios-41-42-43_p990.html?zenid=2cj51ukls9oib94tnkao0g3qf2) .

i may be interested in the TV adapter, has anyone tried it at all, like if you hooked up sound to go into your tv as well would it be delayed? or to play games?
please post your experiences as this is a good deal for me

Drop resistance is important for me. A drop will happen eventually onto a hard surface, I want to make sure it does not affect my phone at all.

It would need to be sleek though and not too thick.

How is the otterbox commuter?

This is IMO but I think the best combo of thinness and drop protection would be the Speck Pixelskin HD. I would've recommended an Incase Slider but the entire case is thin but it is hard plastic which would either break your iPhones glass or just completely knick up the case.

Since the Pixelskin HD is TPU, it remains thin and it's a nice material for drops and it would absorb the shock MUCH better. And the drop won't show up on the case since it's so solid. So you won't have to ever replace it with a new one.

If I had to throw ALL my cases away and only pick one--just for aesthetics, protection ane thinness--I'd keep the Pixelskin HD.

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